Progress has been slow but steady in the same areas of training as in previous weeks. Now, before we start our walk, Patience will sit after the leash is on and wait until the door is open and recently has started to wait until I step forward instead of trying to run outside in front of me. We've also created a few rules for the grass; when she stops to spend half the day sniffing one spot of grass, a leash tug and the words "c'mon" get her moving without a tug-of-war. She goes in the direction of leash tugs more willingly without planting her feet and trying to drag me and is more willing to leave the grass at my suggestion.
There are also further indications of increased relaxation with our routines. When she first moved in one of the signs of her anxiety was the need to defecate as much as four times a day. Now she goes twice in sync with how often she's fed and at regular times of the day. She's also becoming more relaxed and confident about physical contact when I pull her to me or check her ears, feet, etc. Instead of jumping to her feet each time I move, she's begun to occasionally just watch as I travel around the apartment. A further indication is that she's found her favorite resting spots around the place and uses them regularly.
One big point of progress is that as she's relaxed she's begun showing more interest in socializing with other dogs. For the first couple of weeks her strategy was ignoring and avoiding contact. Now she's displaying the typical tail-wagging desire to approach unknown dogs. Instead of her investigating alone, I've had the pleasure of watching her run and play with other dogs for brief periods when we're at the dog park.
So as I said, slow but steady progress.
12/21/09
12/6/09
Patience - 2nd Week
The second week of Patience's new life revealed some more small improvements in our issues. She appears to be turning out to be a submissive and cooperative lady as she becomes more comfortable and confident in her new home. Part of that progress is also a result of my exploration of which techniques work for Patience, and then consistently using those techniques.
The issues at the door are slowly being resolved by sticking to the combination of waiting patiently before putting on the leash (now she'll stop jumping around and sit) to pulling her back behind me before stepping through the open door (she's begun waiting after being pulled back). She's also beginning to interpret the meaning of a few simple hand signals. The hand raised as if to stop traffic has become "wait" or "stay" in her mind and she has begun to respond. When I need some space I point my finger in any direction and tell her "go play" and that has started to work as well. To get the meaning across I had to persistently push her away in the beginning, but now she complies and it hasn't prevented her from approaching at other times. Such simple but consistent signals will aid communication in the future and her confidence in that communication will help her adjust and relax in her new home.
A couple of advances that I think are more than minor because they involve future issues that will persist throughout our time together have shown significant improvements this week. The first is her response to the "Leave It" command. I have a friend with a 2 year old male Dachshund mix named Jake who lives a block away. We've visited a few times in the last two weeks and they've proved to be perfect training opportunities. Jake is intact (not neutered) and is showing some possessiveness issues. On the occasions we've visited there have been two rawhide-type chews on the floor and Jake immediately grabs one when we enter. Patience got the other rawhide on the first few encounters. Jake would be satisfied with one for a while, then abandon it and try to get the second one from Patience. She displayed some hostility (growling, bared teeth and a snap) the first time, so I intended to teach her some visitors' manners. I took her rawhide from her, placed it on the floor a foot or so in front of her and used the "leave it" command. (It's the same command I've used to make her wait for her food and to wait for treats until she's invited to approach them). I had to push her back the first few times, but she eventually gave up. When she did, Jake took that rawhide and I handed her the one he had abandoned previously. Now when we visit, she won't take a chewy object until it's handed to her and will surrender it with the "leave it" command. The same command causes her to walk away from Jake's food bowl and twice this week she has dropped objects she picked up to eat during the walk when I used the command! I will continue practicing the "leave it" command at my friend's house to reinforce Patience's training, as well as at my own house with treats and her food. It's an important command for a dog to respond to and it will help me keep Patience safe.
The second important improvement is in displays of trust. Patience is slowly relaxing closer to me, allowing me to inspect her feet, ears, eyes and teeth with less protest and is becoming more excited about coming to me when I call. All of these areas were improved by practice and consistency. Each time I called her to me, moved her closer to me or examined her I made sure absolutely nothing uncomfortable happened and she got lavish rewards of affection. Now we are starting to play bite (her teeth, my hands) and other small games that she avoided when she first arrived. Lately she's started jumping on the sofa next to me and has begun to rest her chin on my leg for short periods of time. Besides the obviously gratifying emotional satisfaction I get from these incidents, they are also displays of trust.
One of the important techniques to note is that when I first started checking her feet and ears, she didn't want me to. I had to use corrections to overcome her objections in order to build trust in the first place. The corrections I used were just a forceful "shhh" sound. That plus persistence plus rewards is working quite well. In some circumstances it is necessary to create and enforce rules in order to have the tools to build trust on! Affection alone rarely works. Sometimes a gentle but assertive demand for respect is needed! If used wisely, such demands help, they don't hurt.
More next week. Meanwhile, happy holidays.
The issues at the door are slowly being resolved by sticking to the combination of waiting patiently before putting on the leash (now she'll stop jumping around and sit) to pulling her back behind me before stepping through the open door (she's begun waiting after being pulled back). She's also beginning to interpret the meaning of a few simple hand signals. The hand raised as if to stop traffic has become "wait" or "stay" in her mind and she has begun to respond. When I need some space I point my finger in any direction and tell her "go play" and that has started to work as well. To get the meaning across I had to persistently push her away in the beginning, but now she complies and it hasn't prevented her from approaching at other times. Such simple but consistent signals will aid communication in the future and her confidence in that communication will help her adjust and relax in her new home.
A couple of advances that I think are more than minor because they involve future issues that will persist throughout our time together have shown significant improvements this week. The first is her response to the "Leave It" command. I have a friend with a 2 year old male Dachshund mix named Jake who lives a block away. We've visited a few times in the last two weeks and they've proved to be perfect training opportunities. Jake is intact (not neutered) and is showing some possessiveness issues. On the occasions we've visited there have been two rawhide-type chews on the floor and Jake immediately grabs one when we enter. Patience got the other rawhide on the first few encounters. Jake would be satisfied with one for a while, then abandon it and try to get the second one from Patience. She displayed some hostility (growling, bared teeth and a snap) the first time, so I intended to teach her some visitors' manners. I took her rawhide from her, placed it on the floor a foot or so in front of her and used the "leave it" command. (It's the same command I've used to make her wait for her food and to wait for treats until she's invited to approach them). I had to push her back the first few times, but she eventually gave up. When she did, Jake took that rawhide and I handed her the one he had abandoned previously. Now when we visit, she won't take a chewy object until it's handed to her and will surrender it with the "leave it" command. The same command causes her to walk away from Jake's food bowl and twice this week she has dropped objects she picked up to eat during the walk when I used the command! I will continue practicing the "leave it" command at my friend's house to reinforce Patience's training, as well as at my own house with treats and her food. It's an important command for a dog to respond to and it will help me keep Patience safe.
The second important improvement is in displays of trust. Patience is slowly relaxing closer to me, allowing me to inspect her feet, ears, eyes and teeth with less protest and is becoming more excited about coming to me when I call. All of these areas were improved by practice and consistency. Each time I called her to me, moved her closer to me or examined her I made sure absolutely nothing uncomfortable happened and she got lavish rewards of affection. Now we are starting to play bite (her teeth, my hands) and other small games that she avoided when she first arrived. Lately she's started jumping on the sofa next to me and has begun to rest her chin on my leg for short periods of time. Besides the obviously gratifying emotional satisfaction I get from these incidents, they are also displays of trust.
One of the important techniques to note is that when I first started checking her feet and ears, she didn't want me to. I had to use corrections to overcome her objections in order to build trust in the first place. The corrections I used were just a forceful "shhh" sound. That plus persistence plus rewards is working quite well. In some circumstances it is necessary to create and enforce rules in order to have the tools to build trust on! Affection alone rarely works. Sometimes a gentle but assertive demand for respect is needed! If used wisely, such demands help, they don't hurt.
More next week. Meanwhile, happy holidays.
11/28/09
Patience - 1st week
I decided to start training Patience with the walk as a priority. I'm pleased to say there has been some small progress in just one week. I'll start with the behaviors I noticed the day I brought her home one week ago today.
Patience displayed very hyperactive behaviors as soon as I put on a jacket, and those behaviors escalated when I picked up her leash. Putting the leash on her collar was like trying to catch a greased pig. She ran in circles, jumped on me and whined while I was trying to get the leash on. So during the week I started going slow. When I put my jacket on, I simply stood and looked at her until she stopped being hyper. Then I did the same thing after I picked up the leash. Now she doesn't get hyper until after the leash is attached to her collar.
The following behaviors haven't changed much except to become a little less hysterical. Last week, once the leash was on, Patience lunged for the door. I began pulling her back from the door again and again until the lunging stopped. Now she usually only tries once and waits after I pull her back the first time. Then she started lunging again when I reached to unlock the deadbolt, so I've employed the same strategy at that step as well. Now I only have to pull her back once at this stage also. Last week she was lunging again when I turned the door knob, so I've pulled her back repeatedly at this point as well. I still have to do it more than once, but slightly less often than a week ago. Her final bout of lunging occurs when I actually pull the door open and the same strategy is slowly beginning to work in this instance too.
Once we're outside the walking wrestling match begins in earnest. She is absolutely convinced that my job is to faithfully follow wherever she leads and I should keep up or be dragged. I've started by establishing two different protocols: the sidewalk protocol and the grass protocol.
There is a small park a block from my apartment, but every walk starts with the sidewalk protocol until we get there. When we're in the grass I allow her to follow her nose and go where she wishes, but when she pulls me I stop and tug the leash until she stops trying to drag me. Then we resume walking in the direction she wanted to go. After a week, she still tries to drag me but stops with the first leash tug. She seems to understand that we won't proceed until she quits pulling. She still tries, but stops much sooner than she did a week ago. There is another grassy area about halfway through the walk, and the same rules apply there as well. The progress at our second grassy knoll is the same as the park.
The sidewalk protocol has seen very little progress. Here she can't pull me, run ahead of me or change our direction at her whim. This results in a mile and a half of almost constant leash tugs that slow her down for about three steps...then she tries to take over again. Obviously this is going to be the most challenging aspect of the walk for quite some time to come.
Last week Patience seemed to believe that any edible object on the floor was there for her to immediately jump on and eat. In just a week I have convinced her to wait for an invitation to her food bowl and treats placed on the floor. I simply kept pushing her back from them until she quit trying to approach without an invitation. In one short week she now sits when I place her food bowl on the floor until I invite her, and ignores treats on the floor until I pick them up and offer them to her (unless I leave the room). Since this is obviously new behavior for her, she is somewhat hesitant to approach, but I'm putting that down to learning new behavior. As she learns my signals to approach I believe she will become more relaxed as long as I remain consistent. I can imagine an inexperienced dog owner thinking, "Great! Now she's scared to eat." I don't believe that's what the hesitation is about. I think we're learning how to talk to each other.
The other small forms of progress are probably more about Patience beginning to feel more secure in her new home than about training, but there is one incident worth mentioning. One afternoon when I heard some strange noises outside and opened the door to see what was happening, Patience slipped past me. She didn't go far. In fact she stopped right outside the door and looked back with her tail wagging. When I stepped toward her, she turned to take off and stopped when I failed to come out. Small and friendly persuasions failed to lure her back so I went to big and bossy. Standing straight-backed with my chest out and my fists on my hips, I barked at her to come in while I snapped my fingers and pointed at the floor at my feet. She trotted right in, looking at me like "why didn't you just say so?" She didn't didn't even lunge for the door when I stepped over to close it!
So, there has been some small progress in learning to understand each other, and we're both feeling a little more secure in each others' company.
More to come next week.
Patience displayed very hyperactive behaviors as soon as I put on a jacket, and those behaviors escalated when I picked up her leash. Putting the leash on her collar was like trying to catch a greased pig. She ran in circles, jumped on me and whined while I was trying to get the leash on. So during the week I started going slow. When I put my jacket on, I simply stood and looked at her until she stopped being hyper. Then I did the same thing after I picked up the leash. Now she doesn't get hyper until after the leash is attached to her collar.
The following behaviors haven't changed much except to become a little less hysterical. Last week, once the leash was on, Patience lunged for the door. I began pulling her back from the door again and again until the lunging stopped. Now she usually only tries once and waits after I pull her back the first time. Then she started lunging again when I reached to unlock the deadbolt, so I've employed the same strategy at that step as well. Now I only have to pull her back once at this stage also. Last week she was lunging again when I turned the door knob, so I've pulled her back repeatedly at this point as well. I still have to do it more than once, but slightly less often than a week ago. Her final bout of lunging occurs when I actually pull the door open and the same strategy is slowly beginning to work in this instance too.
Once we're outside the walking wrestling match begins in earnest. She is absolutely convinced that my job is to faithfully follow wherever she leads and I should keep up or be dragged. I've started by establishing two different protocols: the sidewalk protocol and the grass protocol.
There is a small park a block from my apartment, but every walk starts with the sidewalk protocol until we get there. When we're in the grass I allow her to follow her nose and go where she wishes, but when she pulls me I stop and tug the leash until she stops trying to drag me. Then we resume walking in the direction she wanted to go. After a week, she still tries to drag me but stops with the first leash tug. She seems to understand that we won't proceed until she quits pulling. She still tries, but stops much sooner than she did a week ago. There is another grassy area about halfway through the walk, and the same rules apply there as well. The progress at our second grassy knoll is the same as the park.
The sidewalk protocol has seen very little progress. Here she can't pull me, run ahead of me or change our direction at her whim. This results in a mile and a half of almost constant leash tugs that slow her down for about three steps...then she tries to take over again. Obviously this is going to be the most challenging aspect of the walk for quite some time to come.
Last week Patience seemed to believe that any edible object on the floor was there for her to immediately jump on and eat. In just a week I have convinced her to wait for an invitation to her food bowl and treats placed on the floor. I simply kept pushing her back from them until she quit trying to approach without an invitation. In one short week she now sits when I place her food bowl on the floor until I invite her, and ignores treats on the floor until I pick them up and offer them to her (unless I leave the room). Since this is obviously new behavior for her, she is somewhat hesitant to approach, but I'm putting that down to learning new behavior. As she learns my signals to approach I believe she will become more relaxed as long as I remain consistent. I can imagine an inexperienced dog owner thinking, "Great! Now she's scared to eat." I don't believe that's what the hesitation is about. I think we're learning how to talk to each other.
The other small forms of progress are probably more about Patience beginning to feel more secure in her new home than about training, but there is one incident worth mentioning. One afternoon when I heard some strange noises outside and opened the door to see what was happening, Patience slipped past me. She didn't go far. In fact she stopped right outside the door and looked back with her tail wagging. When I stepped toward her, she turned to take off and stopped when I failed to come out. Small and friendly persuasions failed to lure her back so I went to big and bossy. Standing straight-backed with my chest out and my fists on my hips, I barked at her to come in while I snapped my fingers and pointed at the floor at my feet. She trotted right in, looking at me like "why didn't you just say so?" She didn't didn't even lunge for the door when I stepped over to close it!
So, there has been some small progress in learning to understand each other, and we're both feeling a little more secure in each others' company.
More to come next week.
11/25/09
Patience
On Nov. 23rd, 2009 I adopted a dog named Patience. She is a seven year old Dachshund/Spaniel mix with a few minor issues. I'm going to be posting weekly updates on the training methods I use to bring Patience and I to an understanding of how things are going to be in my home. I hope these methods and observations may be of use to others.
I live in an apartment and one of the first things to become clear is that Patience is used to having access to a yard. She loves to go out, but has had very little leash training, indicating that she is used to being outdoors and making her own behavioral choices. The apartment complex has a fenced yard but it is surfaced with gravel which apparently doesn't meet the approval of prissy miss Patience. I will be persuading her that it is okay to pee on rocks.
It also became clear quickly that any edible object on the floor "belongs" to Patience. This is another area where I will become the evil tyrant that unfairly obstructs prima-donna Patience's whims.
Patience is obviously used to taking humans for walks and expects us to go where she wishes, stop when she wishes, get moving again at the speed and in the direction she wishes, and all the while silently and compliantly loving her for it. This too her tyrannical new owner will oppose. Oh, the hardships and disappointments miss Patience is about to encounter. How ever will she survive the trauma? I'll keep you posted weekly, so stay tuned.
I live in an apartment and one of the first things to become clear is that Patience is used to having access to a yard. She loves to go out, but has had very little leash training, indicating that she is used to being outdoors and making her own behavioral choices. The apartment complex has a fenced yard but it is surfaced with gravel which apparently doesn't meet the approval of prissy miss Patience. I will be persuading her that it is okay to pee on rocks.
It also became clear quickly that any edible object on the floor "belongs" to Patience. This is another area where I will become the evil tyrant that unfairly obstructs prima-donna Patience's whims.
Patience is obviously used to taking humans for walks and expects us to go where she wishes, stop when she wishes, get moving again at the speed and in the direction she wishes, and all the while silently and compliantly loving her for it. This too her tyrannical new owner will oppose. Oh, the hardships and disappointments miss Patience is about to encounter. How ever will she survive the trauma? I'll keep you posted weekly, so stay tuned.
9/27/09
Leadership Necessities
One of the most commonly used words in dog behavior discussions has seriously negative connotations for humans; dominance. In canine perceptions, however, dominance isn't a negative concept, but a necessary one. In an effort to dispel some of the negative human beliefs concerning this phenomenon, I'm going to attempt to define it yet again.
When dogs (or any social creature, including human children) are willing to repress their instinctive responses due to respect and trust and behave in ways that are approved by another, that other may be called "dominant" (or a "leader"). In the human social group (the family) behaviorists would refer to the parent as "dominant". Dominance is frequently perceived as involving coercion or intimidation, but it is actually about trust and respect. When members of a social group pattern their behavior after the behavior or wishes of another group member, dominance has occurred.
As with children, a pattern of respect and trust can be established with dogs by the setting and following of daily behavioral rules. As we teach our children good manners and proper social behavior they develop trust and respect for our guidance. These rules are frequently used by children in emotionally charged situations even when we aren't present. When a pattern of guidance has been established in daily life, then a dog is also more likely and willing to defer to human judgment in emotionally charged situations in which danger or a threat is perceived by the dog (such as encountering other dogs or people outside of the home). Dominance is nothing more than setting a good example and creating a set of consistent behaviors that encourage group members to pattern their behavior after the actions or wishes of another group member they respect and trust.
While there are many parallels involved however, gaining the respect and trust of canines cannot be done in exactly the ways that are successful with human children. A lot of verbal and written instructions and explanations can be utilized when dealing with humans that aren't possible with dogs. Therefore, dealing with canines requires the use of Behavioral Indications of Status (BIS). In order to have a content but well-behaved dog, humans must tend to their pack BIS.
Dogs interpret the following behaviors as indications of dominant status:
1) A pack member that displays dominant postures and body language.
2) A pack member that exhibits self-control.
3) A pack member that takes control of the behavior of its followers.
4) A pack member that takes control of situations the pack encounters.
Displays of Dominance
When a dog displays dominance it makes itself as large as possible. The head is held high, the ears are erect and the tail is up. Its chest is pushed forward, its legs are spread shoulder-width apart and the feet are turned slightly outward as if ready to take action. It will use sustained direct eye contact and turn face-on as if in confrontation.
When a human is controlling a dog we should display similar attributes. We should stand straight-backed with our chins up and our shoulders back, pushing our chest forward. Our legs should be shoulder-width apart with our feet turned slightly outward and we should balance partly on the balls of our feet as if ready to step into action. We should make sustained direct eye contact and be face-forward to the dog. In other words, we should display our status in ways dogs will instinctively recognize as leadership postures.
Displays of Self-control
Many of us have heard the statement "Don't let an aggressive dog see your fear". This is a valid strategy, although it doesn't go far enough. When we experience emotions chemical changes occur in our brains which trigger chemical changes in our bodies as well. Canine noses are sensitive enough to smell these chemical changes, rendering it virtually impossible to disguise our feelings in the perceptions of dogs. To the canine mind, humans experiencing these feelings are not a threat in itself. When our bodies simultaneously display indications that these emotions are overwhelming us, dogs see this event as weakness or threat. Therefore, experiencing fear in the presence of an aggressive dog isn't dangerous, but appearing to be unable to control our fear is. Being controlled by fear can result in unpredictable and possibly dangerous behavior (panic reactions, etc.). Frightened humans aren't seen as dangerous by dogs, but frightened humans who don't control their fear are definitely perceived as a threat.
This holds true for any emotion. Love is a welcome emotion for dogs to detect in us, but when we love to the point that it is displayed in body language, tone of voice, facial expression and behavior it is perceived as weakness the dog can gain control of. Being controlled by even a positive emotion disqualifies us to lead in the eyes of dogs and instinct demands that they must take control.
Anger is an unwelcome emotion, but anger that causes us to make fists of our hands, clench our jaws, thrust our heads and shoulders forward aggressively and raise our voices is a threat. Then the anger is controlling us, not the reverse. Any display we present that indicates we are controlling the physical manifestations of our emotions is perceived as self-control and is more trustworthy.
Dogs will respond to any emotion we experience, but when they perceive that the emotion is controlling us, they can't trust us to lead regardless of the positive or negative nature of the emotion. When we perform obvious displays of controlling our emotions our leadership status is reinforced.
Taking Control of Followers
Canine interpretations of control are different than ours. For example, a dog that is physically in front of a human sees itself as confronting dangers and threats and therefore, the dog is in control of the pack. This is why allowing the dog to be in front during the walk is a mistake. When a dog hears a knock or bell at the door and charges the door, it doesn't see humans as being in control if they are standing behind the dog and grabbing their collar. Being physically behind the dog is being a follower. People who are attempting to control a dog that is lunging against its leash usually fail to change the dog's behavior because in the dog's mind they can't be in control if they are behind the dog; they are followers interfering with the leader's duties and increasing the dog's frustration.
In the canine mind, those in control confront their followers. Any of the situations mentioned in the previous paragraph can be more quickly controlled by simply stepping in front of the dog and confronting them face-to-face.
Another behavior dogs interpret as control is persisting until the follower surrenders and complies. If you tell your dog to sit and it doesn't want to, it will challenge your authority by refusing. The one that gives up first is seen as voluntarily surrendering to the others control. If you persist until the dog sits it will see you as taking control and it will elevate your status. If you give up before the dog complies you surrender status. Quitters can't be trusted as leaders!
Controlling Situations
There are several situations during which we must be in control for a dog to instinctively believe in our leadership. These are situations where a dominant canine pack leader would control the pack followers behaviors and thereby induce an instinctive "respect" response in dogs.
1) During pack motion (the walk).
2) During meal times (both human and canine).
3) During times of relaxation.
4) During play (socialization practice).
I'll provide more information about each of these situations in future posts. Meanwhile there is a more critical strategy to consider and it is the one humans most frequently fail to be consistent in.
The Stick and the Carrot
The single behavior that most often undermines a dog's wish to establish trust and respect for their human companions is the human failing to take any action whatsoever. Unwanted behaviors should be corrected and desired behaviors should be rewarded; consistently! This is the simplest training strategy that can be implemented with any social creature, be they dogs, horses or human children. The need to communicate effectively is absolutely essential to guiding the behaviors of anyone, human or canine. Tell your dog when you approve and when you don't using techniques and methods dogs understand! A leader communicates consistently and effectively.
When dogs (or any social creature, including human children) are willing to repress their instinctive responses due to respect and trust and behave in ways that are approved by another, that other may be called "dominant" (or a "leader"). In the human social group (the family) behaviorists would refer to the parent as "dominant". Dominance is frequently perceived as involving coercion or intimidation, but it is actually about trust and respect. When members of a social group pattern their behavior after the behavior or wishes of another group member, dominance has occurred.
As with children, a pattern of respect and trust can be established with dogs by the setting and following of daily behavioral rules. As we teach our children good manners and proper social behavior they develop trust and respect for our guidance. These rules are frequently used by children in emotionally charged situations even when we aren't present. When a pattern of guidance has been established in daily life, then a dog is also more likely and willing to defer to human judgment in emotionally charged situations in which danger or a threat is perceived by the dog (such as encountering other dogs or people outside of the home). Dominance is nothing more than setting a good example and creating a set of consistent behaviors that encourage group members to pattern their behavior after the actions or wishes of another group member they respect and trust.
While there are many parallels involved however, gaining the respect and trust of canines cannot be done in exactly the ways that are successful with human children. A lot of verbal and written instructions and explanations can be utilized when dealing with humans that aren't possible with dogs. Therefore, dealing with canines requires the use of Behavioral Indications of Status (BIS). In order to have a content but well-behaved dog, humans must tend to their pack BIS.
Dogs interpret the following behaviors as indications of dominant status:
1) A pack member that displays dominant postures and body language.
2) A pack member that exhibits self-control.
3) A pack member that takes control of the behavior of its followers.
4) A pack member that takes control of situations the pack encounters.
Displays of Dominance
When a dog displays dominance it makes itself as large as possible. The head is held high, the ears are erect and the tail is up. Its chest is pushed forward, its legs are spread shoulder-width apart and the feet are turned slightly outward as if ready to take action. It will use sustained direct eye contact and turn face-on as if in confrontation.
When a human is controlling a dog we should display similar attributes. We should stand straight-backed with our chins up and our shoulders back, pushing our chest forward. Our legs should be shoulder-width apart with our feet turned slightly outward and we should balance partly on the balls of our feet as if ready to step into action. We should make sustained direct eye contact and be face-forward to the dog. In other words, we should display our status in ways dogs will instinctively recognize as leadership postures.
Displays of Self-control
Many of us have heard the statement "Don't let an aggressive dog see your fear". This is a valid strategy, although it doesn't go far enough. When we experience emotions chemical changes occur in our brains which trigger chemical changes in our bodies as well. Canine noses are sensitive enough to smell these chemical changes, rendering it virtually impossible to disguise our feelings in the perceptions of dogs. To the canine mind, humans experiencing these feelings are not a threat in itself. When our bodies simultaneously display indications that these emotions are overwhelming us, dogs see this event as weakness or threat. Therefore, experiencing fear in the presence of an aggressive dog isn't dangerous, but appearing to be unable to control our fear is. Being controlled by fear can result in unpredictable and possibly dangerous behavior (panic reactions, etc.). Frightened humans aren't seen as dangerous by dogs, but frightened humans who don't control their fear are definitely perceived as a threat.
This holds true for any emotion. Love is a welcome emotion for dogs to detect in us, but when we love to the point that it is displayed in body language, tone of voice, facial expression and behavior it is perceived as weakness the dog can gain control of. Being controlled by even a positive emotion disqualifies us to lead in the eyes of dogs and instinct demands that they must take control.
Anger is an unwelcome emotion, but anger that causes us to make fists of our hands, clench our jaws, thrust our heads and shoulders forward aggressively and raise our voices is a threat. Then the anger is controlling us, not the reverse. Any display we present that indicates we are controlling the physical manifestations of our emotions is perceived as self-control and is more trustworthy.
Dogs will respond to any emotion we experience, but when they perceive that the emotion is controlling us, they can't trust us to lead regardless of the positive or negative nature of the emotion. When we perform obvious displays of controlling our emotions our leadership status is reinforced.
Taking Control of Followers
Canine interpretations of control are different than ours. For example, a dog that is physically in front of a human sees itself as confronting dangers and threats and therefore, the dog is in control of the pack. This is why allowing the dog to be in front during the walk is a mistake. When a dog hears a knock or bell at the door and charges the door, it doesn't see humans as being in control if they are standing behind the dog and grabbing their collar. Being physically behind the dog is being a follower. People who are attempting to control a dog that is lunging against its leash usually fail to change the dog's behavior because in the dog's mind they can't be in control if they are behind the dog; they are followers interfering with the leader's duties and increasing the dog's frustration.
In the canine mind, those in control confront their followers. Any of the situations mentioned in the previous paragraph can be more quickly controlled by simply stepping in front of the dog and confronting them face-to-face.
Another behavior dogs interpret as control is persisting until the follower surrenders and complies. If you tell your dog to sit and it doesn't want to, it will challenge your authority by refusing. The one that gives up first is seen as voluntarily surrendering to the others control. If you persist until the dog sits it will see you as taking control and it will elevate your status. If you give up before the dog complies you surrender status. Quitters can't be trusted as leaders!
Controlling Situations
There are several situations during which we must be in control for a dog to instinctively believe in our leadership. These are situations where a dominant canine pack leader would control the pack followers behaviors and thereby induce an instinctive "respect" response in dogs.
1) During pack motion (the walk).
2) During meal times (both human and canine).
3) During times of relaxation.
4) During play (socialization practice).
I'll provide more information about each of these situations in future posts. Meanwhile there is a more critical strategy to consider and it is the one humans most frequently fail to be consistent in.
The Stick and the Carrot
The single behavior that most often undermines a dog's wish to establish trust and respect for their human companions is the human failing to take any action whatsoever. Unwanted behaviors should be corrected and desired behaviors should be rewarded; consistently! This is the simplest training strategy that can be implemented with any social creature, be they dogs, horses or human children. The need to communicate effectively is absolutely essential to guiding the behaviors of anyone, human or canine. Tell your dog when you approve and when you don't using techniques and methods dogs understand! A leader communicates consistently and effectively.
9/7/09
Learning Disability
Even with more than twenty five years of experience working with dogs, I am living proof that on the right day and with the right series of mistakes anyone can get bitten on the face. It happened to me last Saturday (Aug. 29).
My first mistake was allowing myself to be persuaded to consider taking a dog based on the circumstances of the people who had the dog, rather than the dog itself. People who want to give a dog to someone else ALWAYS have some series of dire reasons or circumstances for why it has to happen TODAY. On the day in question, I allowed myself to be influenced by the story more than I should have.
My second mistake was arrogantly assuming that the dog’s behavior was ONLY a result of owner ignorance. The dog was very dominant and I assumed it had simply not been trained by previous owners. He pulled everywhere he wanted to go and wasn’t susceptible to persuasion about who was in charge. He marked frequently and ignored his name and instructions.
My third mistake was being taken with the dog’s appearance rather than it’s behavior. He was a Husky/Malamute mix that had perfect husky markings while being large (at least 60 lbs. and maybe more).
Another mistake was accepting the information I was offered at face value. He wasn’t six years old, but considerably younger and more excitable than that level of maturity would create. He may have adjusted to the other animals where he had been, but that is no indication that he would tolerate other dogs or cats in a different environment.
My next mistake was forgetting that canines are carnivorous predators and are capable of disguising their intentions.
When we encountered a smaller, yappier dog at the park Bob-O (the Husky) responded with very aggressive behavior. When I successfully backed him off and calmed him down I thought this would be a good training opportunity. We approached again and I successfully calmed him again. After repeating the exercise a few times, I relaxed and sat on the grass not far from the other dog. Bob-O put on a good show of being calm and sniffing the grass, etc. He was actually maneuvering himself to attack and controlling him from ground level was my final mistake. I pulled him back to me and went to one knee to rise to a standing position. That’s when he turned and bit me on the face.
At the emergency room I had the embarrassing experience of explaining that I am an experienced canine behaviorist who had his face ripped open by a dog. One tetanus shot and several stitches later I was released.
Animal control has Bob-O now for a ten day evaluation that is very likely to result in him being euthanized. It’s very easy to allow our own expectations to overide our common sense where dogs are concerned. It’s necessary to ALWAYS remember dogs are canines with the instinctive behaviors of carniverous predators! I have a new scar to prove it.
6/6/09
Sonny
About 5 weeks ago a NMAF (New Mexico Animal Friends) foster called me about an 8 year old American bulldog female named Sonny. She’s got problems controlling her aggression around other dogs. During my initial visit I showed the foster how to convince Sonny that her human care-taker is the boss and then how to start controlling Sonny more with her mind than with the leash.
On my second visit two weeks ago there was some minor improvement in Sonny’s behavior. The foster (who works as well as cares for several animals) had been unable to work with Sonny daily, and the other dogs were not reacting well to my presence. Both of these circumstances prevented Sonny from showing her best behavior.
Today we met outside of a Pet Smart where NMAF had an adoption clinic going and we worked at a distance from all of the activity. Dogs were brought singly to the area as we worked with Sonny and she definitely put her best foot forward. At one point, Sonny was lying on her side and totally relaxed within 5 feet of 4 other dogs!
We practiced walking past and then behind other dogs that were being led on leash and we practiced having Sonny sit calmly as other dogs walked past her. We led Sonny within a few feet of a dog as we circled that dog, and at one point we walked beside another handler while she led a different dog. There were some minor attempts by Sonny to react to the other dogs, but she was easily persuaded to ignore them.
Sonny did extremely well and I hope her foster is giving herself credit for the progress they have made. I also hope Sonny’s performance convinced some skeptics that the dog CAN be rehabilitated, no matter how bad her previous behavior has been. Once people learn the keys to dog behavior, NO dog is hopeless!!!!
On my second visit two weeks ago there was some minor improvement in Sonny’s behavior. The foster (who works as well as cares for several animals) had been unable to work with Sonny daily, and the other dogs were not reacting well to my presence. Both of these circumstances prevented Sonny from showing her best behavior.
Today we met outside of a Pet Smart where NMAF had an adoption clinic going and we worked at a distance from all of the activity. Dogs were brought singly to the area as we worked with Sonny and she definitely put her best foot forward. At one point, Sonny was lying on her side and totally relaxed within 5 feet of 4 other dogs!
We practiced walking past and then behind other dogs that were being led on leash and we practiced having Sonny sit calmly as other dogs walked past her. We led Sonny within a few feet of a dog as we circled that dog, and at one point we walked beside another handler while she led a different dog. There were some minor attempts by Sonny to react to the other dogs, but she was easily persuaded to ignore them.
Sonny did extremely well and I hope her foster is giving herself credit for the progress they have made. I also hope Sonny’s performance convinced some skeptics that the dog CAN be rehabilitated, no matter how bad her previous behavior has been. Once people learn the keys to dog behavior, NO dog is hopeless!!!!
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